Thursday 28 July
18 years since our last visit to New York, and this time with children. Didn’t get off to the best of starts as our 11am flight was delayed two hours due to the delay of the incoming flight thanks to the weather. The British attempt at catering for the masses at Bristol Airport didn’t help either. (Tip: if you are flying out of Bristol Airport and need something to eat before going through security – eat at the French Café on the ground floor.)
Arrived at Newark at 5pm (NY time) instead of 3pm. Immigration wasn’t too bad, slow but steady. I am just glad we made it to the line prior to what must have been a full 747 from Japan. The Immigration official was full of charm and good humour – not. No change from 18 years ago on that point.
I had arranged a limo as a treat to get the visit off to a good start. Fortunately I had been able to contact them before our flight left to advise them of the delay. Being tired and following the delay, it was most comforting to see someone standing in the arrivals hall holding a sign with my name on it. Went outside and waited while the driver went to fetch the car. Kept entertained by the local Police arresting and cuffing someone right in front of us. A great introduction to NY.
The wife (Kate) and kids (Sam 8 %26amp; Alex(andra)14) were thrilled with the limo and enjoyed the ride to the hotel.
We were staying at the Novotel at 52nd %26amp; Broadway. Thanks to TA, I was aware that we needed to take the elevator up to the reception area. There was however, a member of the hotel staff in the lobby directing guests where to go with a smile and pleasant greeting. So far so good.
The reception staff may not have been over friendly, but were efficient and it didn’t take long to get up to our room. We hadn’t asked (or paid) for one, but we had a room over looking Broadway with a sideways view down to Times Square which was a bit of a bonus.
The room whilst not massive, had two large double beds and was big enough for us with plenty of storage space. The bathroom was fine and clean.
After some quick unpacking, we ventured out on to Broadway heading towards Times Square. However, it was now 7pm NY time, or midnight UK time, so we needed to find somewhere for a quick bite to eat and then back to the hotel. Despite the hour, I think the atmosphere in Times Square must have revived us all somewhat as we took in the sights, sounds and oh yes, the smells.
Again, thanks to TA, found Virgils BBQ and went in there for some dinner. Only had to wait a short time before being shown to a table in the upstairs dining area. This is a wonderful place, full of atmosphere. Being a beer drinker, the bar man recommended I try the Brooklyn Brewery Beer. And how right he was. As I later discovered, why does every beer with ‘Lite’ after its name taste only of soda ?
The meal (pulled pork sandwich and a turkey club) and service at Virgils were exceptional. Unfortunately, the hour was starting to get to Sam, who was falling asleep at the table. So back to the hotel and to bed.
Friday 29 July
I had pre-booked tickets for the ferry to Liberty %26amp; Ellis Islands. The plan was to set off reasonably early as I was aware there would probably be large queues if we left it too late.
Went to the Art Café directly under the Novotel for Breakfast. Excellent food and service. So good though, we didn’t want to rush our French toast %26amp; bacon, waffles and pancakes. Consequently, we were a bit later setting off than anticipated. Found a subway station to buy our bus %26amp; subway passes and then headed over to 7th Avenue to catch the #6 bus downtown. This was a great way to see some of NY, but it takes a long time for the bus to get all the way down to Battery Park. Time for a quick coffee in Starbucks and then off to get the ferry.
Spent a few minutes at the Sphere recovered from the World Trade Centre towers. Very sadly, not as we remembered it 18 years ago.
The line to buy the tickets was most of the way round the building. I am glad I was able just to go and pick ours up from their Willcall table. However, it was now 11am and the line for the ferry itself stretched well out of Battery Park, and it was hot and there wasn’t much shade. Fortunately, the line was moving reasonably smoothly and the street entertainers kept us amused. Steel drums seem popular in Battery Park as they were 18 years ago. The old feller with the violin was probably the most entertaining to watch. Getting through the security was painless and we were now enjoying some air-conditioning.
We stayed on the boat (escorted by the US Coastguard) at Liberty Island as planned and took photos as we went past. On to Ellis Island which has so much to see, you could easily spend all day there. It does seem amazing that a great deal of the history here is so recent. The exhibits bring so much of it to life. Unfortunately, we could only afford about three hours and would like to have stayed longer. We have a fairly rare surname and found the one occurrence of it engraved on the Wall of Honour. Where did you go from here, Frank?
Back on the boat and to Battery Park. Past all the street vendors with their dodgy handbags and watches as we left Battery Park and headed up Broadway. It brought a smile to our faces to see some people posing at and caressing the back end of the Bronze Bull situated at the top end of Bowling Green. Past Wall Street and turned left.
Spent some time at the site of the World Trade Centre remembering exactly where I was that day nearly four years ago watching the events unfold from so far away.
Eventually decided it was time to get back to the hotel to pick up our tickets for that evenings game at Yankee Stadium. This was hopefully to be one of the most memorable events of our visit to NY, which it turned out to be, but not quite as we expected.
We had a choice of getting the D train from near to the hotel, or walking across town to Lexington and get the #4 train. We decided on the #4 and set off. By the time we reached Lexington it was already 7pm, but were pleased to see other Yankee fans also heading for the stadium when we got on the train, so weren’t too worried about being a bit late. However when we arrived at 125th Street, the train terminated, accompanied by an almost incomprehensible message over the loud speaker stating no more trains would be going to 161st Street on this line. Having absolutely no idea what was happening, we followed the crowds up on to the street where we discovered two buses laid on to take people to Yankee Stadium. Unfortunately, two buses were nothing like enough and we didn’t get on. So, here we were, late, stranded in Harlem, with no idea how to get to the stadium, but determined to get there. We weren’t the only ones and after a brief discussion, a small group of us started walking West to get the D train, six blocks away at Frederick Douglas Blvd. I can’t say it was the most comfortable street we had walked along in NY, especially as it was getting dark, but it was certainly one of the most interesting. Thanks to the NY subway, we were given an impromptu and brief tour of Harlem. Probably a part of NY I wouldn’t have ventured into otherwise.
Arrived at Yankee Stadium (hurrah) and found our way in. We had brought some snacks with us in a clear plastic carrier bag, following the advice about what we could take in to the stadium with us. However, I had to take the things out of my clear plastic bag and place them in to another clear plastic bag provided by the barrier staff and mine was disposed of. Odd !
We eventually found our seats when the game was about the bottom of the third innings. Kate is not great with steep steps and the banking of the seats on the top tier was a challenge, especially when you only have about four inches of concrete to balance on as you step past other people to get to your seats. However, we were not disappointed with the game and all the difficulties we had encountered to get here were well worth it.
The atmosphere was like nothing we had experienced, even the beer and hot dogs tasted good. We saw the Yankees hit a home run, but unfortunately, at the end of the day, they lost 4 – 1 to the LA Angels. This was probably the highlight of our visit to NY and I can not stress enough to any Brits reading this, if you can get to a ball game whilst in NY, do so.
After the game, we bought a couple of souvenirs and took the D train back to 53rd St without further incident. We were feeling hungry again by now, so found Lindy’s restaurant at 7th Avenue %26amp; 53rd St, were Kate and the Alex treated themselves to some NY cheesecake to take back to the hotel. However, I preferred something savoury and left the others in the hotel watching TV whilst I went back towards Times Square and bought some pizza and a couple of beers to take back to the hotel to look back on a very busy first day in New York.
Saturday 30 July
Saturday morning and breakfast at Art Café again. We had decided to check out one of the smaller museums and had noticed the National Museum of the American Indian at the US Custom House near Battery Park the day before. As this coincided with some school work Sam had been doing and also included mention of the tribe of Indians that feature in the ‘Indian in the Cupboard’ books he is reading, this is where we decided to spend Saturday morning.
Back downtown again, though this time on the subway. We were obviously destined to have problems on the subway as our train terminated at Union Square and we were bussed the rest of the way. (Enough busses this time).
The museum was well worth the visit and even kept the children interested due to the ever present fascination with Red Indians. Many exhibits and works of art showed what a rich culture they enjoyed.
After the museum was lunch and for this we needed to head up town to East Houston St. After a brief walk, we boarded the #15 bus from Water St. After all the comments on TA, we had to try lunch at Katz’s Deli and we were not disappointed. Arrived about 2pm and were shown to a table straight away. The atmosphere of the restaurant was amazing and our waiter just wonderful. I went for the pastrami sandwich and Kate, the roast beef sandwich, both washed down with some more Brooklyn Ale. Both sandwiches were top quality as was the food for the children. When we next get a chance to visit NY, Katz’s will be on our ‘must visit again’ list. Bought myself a souvenir apron.
I couldn’t believe we had lasted nearly two days in NY without mention of “shopping”, especially from Alex. From Katz’s, took a taxi, my hailing of which appeared to provide much amusement for our children, to South Street Seaport to help satisfy the craving for shops. Whilst also a tourist attraction this was worth a visit and managed to get away with only window shopping and nothing bought !
From here, took the water taxi over to Brooklyn and from there we were going to walk over Brooklyn Bridge. We found the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory (thanks yet again TA) and indulged in some of their delicious ice cream. They only had a small sign outside, so it wasn’t immediately obvious they were there. We noticed whilst here that this appeared to be a favourite spot for wedding parties to come to have photographs taken. In the short time while eating our ice creams, two wedding parties arrived (in stretched Hummers – what amazing vehicles they are) and spent some time on the dock posing for pictures and then went again.
I wasn’t too sure how to get up on to Brooklyn Bridge and headed in approximately the right direction. I think the rest of the family were starting to think I didn’t know where I was going and more by luck than judgement, found the steps up on to the bridge. The heat was starting to take its toll, but the views were quite stunning as we strolled slowly over the bridge towards Manhattan.
After the bridge we needed to get back to the hotel for a break. We would have gone through City Hall Park, but for some reason it was locked up, so we walked round it to the subway. This journey nearly finished us off for the day. Down on the subway platform it was hot. When a train finally arrived, the air-conditioning in the carriage wasn’t working and we just melted. It was a relief when the train stopped at the stations and the doors opened to let in some not quite so hot air !
As part of my planning I had ensured I had made restaurant reservations in plenty of time. Tonight, I had an 8pm booking at Joe Allen’s. When we got back to the hotel at about 7pm, Kate, Alex and Sam decided they had had enough for the day. The heat in the train had been the final straw. Plus, they were still full of lunch at Katz’s Deli and ice cream from the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. It was with much regret I had to telephone Joe Allen’s and cancel our Saturday night booking. We didn’t want to go and not be able to enjoy it. Perhaps we will try the one in London before too long.
Whilst the two children and my wife were happy to spend Saturday night in the hotel room, I was hungry for more of New York. I left them to watch TV and sleep as I headed out towards Times Square to have look around some of the streets off it and the theatres. It was fascinating to do some people watching as well as spot some of the restaurants whose names I was familiar with through TA. Eventually found myself near the stage door for Spamalot along with a small crowd when David Hyde Pierce came out to sign some autographs. After that, I headed back to the hotel, stopping at a deli for some food to take back with me.
Sunday 31 July
Sunday breakfast was to be yet another gastronomic delight. I had made the booking for a 10am Sunday Brunch at Balthazar as early as possible, ie, one month in advance. Left the hotel at about 9am and took the subway downtown. We arrived in plenty of time and found that Balthazar had opened at 8am for Continental breakfasts and Brunch started at 10am. Sam and Alex didn’t fancy anything on the Brunch menu, but there was plenty on the breakfast menu they would eat so we went in at 9.45am. Going in to the restaurant is like going back in time about 100 years. The walls are lined with very large, very old mirrors with the silvering going. One wall is lined with dusty wine bottles and on one of the room dividers was the most magnificent floral display. The waiting staff were all very well turned out in long white aprons. Those of a higher standing wore ties, whilst those that did the fetching and carrying did not. The only person who stood out, apart from the maitre d’ was the waiter behind the oyster counter who wore a baseball cap, backwards.
As we had sat down just before 10am, we were allowed to mix and match the two menus, with the kids choosing from the breakfast menu and Kate and I choosing from the Brunch menu. The service was very attentive as might be expected from somewhere like this. The food was delicious and included on the table was a basket of wonderfully exotic fruit breads and loaves. So much that we just couldn’t manage it all. Again, thank you TA for this recommendation.
Having had more than enough to see us through lunch as well, we took the subway uptown to Grand Central Station so Sam could see where Madagascar was ‘filmed’. What a magnificent edifice this place is. We spent quite a while here taking it all in and partaking in a bit of people watching. One thing that struck me about the main hall was how well cared for it all seemed. Whilst it may not be the cities greatest catering venue, the food hall on the lower level would have been enough to temp us were we still not full from breakfast. British rail catering could learn a great deal from here !
Uptown again as we walked out in to Park Avenue and across to Madison Avenue to catch a bus up to 61st Street and then into Central Park.
We spent all afternoon relaxing and strolling in the Park which was a pleasant way of winding down after all the hurried activities over the previous couple of days. Sat and watched a jazz trio play a few numbers. Saw the city coroner remove a body from the park. This was obviously much more interesting than the entertainers in the park, judging by the numbers who stood and watched trying to catch a glimpse of the body. We also discretely watched what turned out to be a novice skater. This young man was sat on a bench near the jazz band and had a bag containing all the essential skating equipment. Very diligently, he donned his knee pads, then his elbow pads and finally, the in-line skates. He carefully put away his trainers in his back pack and re-checked the bindings on his skates. Then he tried to stand up. Unfortunately, his left foot went one way and his right foot went another way and he was very unceremoniously dumped back on the bench. However, this lad regained his composure very quickly and, probably hoping no one had noticed, he didn’t try again but slowly removed his skates, the knee pads and elbow pads as if nothing had happened. He stowed them away and put his trainers back on, before walking quietly away. Better luck next time.
We walked up to the fountain and watched the rowers in their boats sweltering under a very hot sun. Not my idea of fun today. However, we then walked on through to the Conservatory Pond, admired Hans Christian Andersen and went to hire a sail boat for Alex and Sam to try there hand at remote control sailing. There wasn’t much of a breeze, so the boats weren’t going that fast, but $10 for an hour’s amusement was money well spent. This was especially so as the kids lost interest after half an hour, just happy to dangle their hot feet in the water and I was able to take over the remote control. Waited quite some time so Alex could sit on Alice’s lap and have her photo taken. This is a very popular spot for that photo moment.
Spent a while watching the much more experienced skaters in an impromptu roller rink and commented on what an uncomplicated multi-cultural crowd of people they were, enjoying themselves and entertaining others and that this was all without any untoward prejudices spoiling the atmosphere. Long may it continue.
Having got the taste for baseball on Friday night, we stopped to watch some of the softball games at the ballfields, before arriving at Columbus Circle. We walked down Broadway back to the hotel to rest out legs for a while. However, I was tasked with buying a new suitcase first to accommodate the souvenirs we had bought and relieve the pressure on our two main cases. Didn’t even have to go as far as Times Square before finding a suitable store.
This was out last evening in New York and one major thing remained outstanding. The Empire State Building. However, we were now feeling hungry, so, as planned, we went to Mars 2112 for dinner first, which was only about two minutes walk from the Novotel.
Whilst the line to get in wasn’t that long, it took a while to go down. This was due, as we discovered, to having to be transported about twelve at a time to Mars, courtesy of a simulator ride. The kids loved this, so I suppose it was worth the wait. It looks like they have three of these for when it is busy, but perhaps, being a Sunday evening it was not busy, so only one was operating. Anyway, once we had landed on Mars, we were promptly shown to our table and greeted by a friendly alien, which again, most impressed Sam and Alex. The overall effect of the restaurant was very impressive, though it wasn’t that busy which, I got the feeling, meant the atmosphere wasn’t as good as it might have been. Some of the fixtures and fittings were showing some wear and tear as the bench seat I was on had a large tear in it and the restrooms could have done with being redecorated. Our waitress proved a prompt and efficient service and the food on the whole was good, though not necessarily memorable. The ‘teleporter’ back to Earth also greatly amused the kids. I would like to come back here when the place was ‘buzzing’.
We walked across a few blocks, pausing briefly at the Rockefeller Centre, and jumped in a taxi on 5th Avenue for the short ride down to The Empire State Building. Thankfully, I had bought tickets on-line, so we were able to miss that line. However, even at 10pm the line for the elevators was long enough. It did, fortunately move regularly so I guess we waited about thirty minutes before getting to the elevators. The wait on the 80th floor to get to the 86th floor was worse even if it was shorter. The construction work taking place does not make for a comfortable area to wait in and there was no air-conditioning apart from some large fans. The line went past a touristy photo shoot with the ESB as a back drop. Everyone in front of us stopped to have their picture taken, though many looked as though they did not want to. Being brave, or too hot and bothered, we just walked straight through without stopping, which quite a few behind us then also did the same. We also avoided the heavy sell for the audio guide. It was very hot on the 80th floor, and I would have happily walked up the stairs for the last six floors if we had been allowed. Not sure if the kids would have agreed with me though.
Having said all that, when we got to the observation deck, it was all worthwhile. It was a very clear night and we could see a good long way, even if it was only the lights we could see. And there was a very pleasant cooling breeze, which was very welcome. Took loads of photos, propping the camera very solidly against the railings for some slow exposure pictures, which have turned out remarkably well. Will have to come back one day in the daylight.
I could have spent longer looking at the sights, but we had an early start in the morning and a plane to catch, so it was back to the hotel (taxi again) and pack. Thank goodness for the third case.
Monday 1 August
Got up in good time, made sure we hadn’t forgotten anything and went downstairs to check out and look for the car I had arranged. Instead of a car to Newark airport, we had been sent another limo. I wasn’t going to complain as I had only paid for a car, and it meant a comfortable ride to the airport with a pleasantly chatty driver. He was complaining about the price of gas (petrol) in the US, but when we told him how much it was in the UK, he said he thought he better stop moaning. After checking in and the usual security checks, we had breakfast at a diner at the airport while waiting to board the plane to Florida.
The general consensus of opinion was that we tried to do too much (though wouldn’t have wanted to miss any of it) in too short a time and need a longer less hurried visit to New York next time, when it isn’t quite as hot. Can’t wait !
Assuming the link works, the photos are here
http://ntlworld.photobox.co.uk/album/1755897
Click on View a Slideshow.
Hope you enjoy the report and pictures as much as I enjoyed being in NY to be able to write about the trip and take the photos.
At last, long trip report 28 July to 1 August plus pictures.Thanks for your great report. Your pictures are excellent!!
I look forward to returning to Balthazar and Katz%26#39;s Deli. I%26#39;m hungry just looking at the pictures of the restaurants.
At last, long trip report 28 July to 1 August plus pictures.lol a fantastic and enjoyable trip report, esp. the coroner in central park. Just had to mention that ';red indian'; became ';native american'; about 18 years ago probably ;-)
Great report with great photos to match! Very much enjoyed it.
...wow brill photos, love the nightlights from ESB!
Beautifully written report. Great pictures--my favorite is the top of the Chrysler Building. Sorry about all your problems with the subway system but you seem to have taken them in good stride. Though it%26#39;s become better in recent years much of the ';American'; beer (especially the lite) is like carbonated water as far as I%26#39;m concerned. For next time, a US beer that is good and is available all over is Samuel Adams. Come again for a longer visit.
Hi there - Great report and even better pictures. Do you mind me asking what type of camera you have? I%26#39;m on the lookout and would appreciate some help. Isn%26#39;t NYC just great for kids? I took my godsons 9 %26amp; 7 from Washington D.C. two years ago and they never walked so much in their lives but didn%26#39;t realise they were walking that far because it was all so cool and interesting so, consequently they didn%26#39;t whine! I really enjoyed seeing it all through their eyes.
Thanks again
can I ask how much did you pay for the novotel?
Absolutely fab report, LOVED reading it and the pix are very good also!
One month to the date til H2B and I go, CANNOT wait *bouncing around excitedly!*
I hadn%26#39;t considered going to a Yankees game before now, but after reading your review it sounds pretty cool, anyone else been? Seems like a must IMO, how much are tickets?
Thanks
Absolutely fab report, LOVED reading it and the pix are very good also!
One month to the date til H2B and I go, CANNOT wait *bouncing around excitedly!*
I hadn%26#39;t considered going to a Yankees game before now, but after reading your review it sounds pretty cool, anyone else been? Seems like a must IMO, how much are tickets?
Thanks
I didn%26#39;t mean to post twice ;o)
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